(Not-so) Protips – Rolled Hems
Mothaf*ckin’ Rolled hems.
They look so pretty, so professional, and goddamn do they look good with a contrasting thread, amirite?
You want flounce? YOU CAN HAVE FLOUNCE. All you need is fishing line. Depending on the weight of the line you can go soft wavy style, (like you would have with horsehair braid) or Wah-BAM. Toddlers and Tiaras motherfuckin’ ruffles. I’ll get to that in a bit though.
I’m not going to go through how to do a basic rolled hem, because there’s some really great tutorials online already.
- Rolled hems with a serger on Sew News
- 3 ways to do a rolled hem without a serger by Megan Nielsen
- The differences between rolled hems and narrow hems on Sew Mama Sew
To make a fishingline hem with a serger, follow the instrugtions on Sew News, or Sew Mama Sew, but do the following:
- Thread your fishing line through the little hole on your serger foot.
- Then keep threading it through, with the needle to the left, and the cutter on the right
Here I am, stuck in the middle with you!
- Thread it under the rest of the foot and pull it out so there’s an inch or two of tail.
- Serge! Bam, it should feed the line on it’s own, and then you can start serging your hem.
Don’t have a serger? No problem! Check out these tutorials for doing a fishing line hem on a regular machine:
- Fishingline hems without a Serger by Julia Bobbin [Text]
- Fishing line hems without a serger on Fashion Sewing Blog [Video]
If you’re going to be doing a fishing line hem, you’re probably doing it on some soft, slippery material, right? Or along a bias so that it’s all ruffle-wonderful.
These are things you need to know. How do I know you need to know them?
Call it intuition.
That’s a pile of rolled hems that I had to re-do on the skirt alone. I still have both sleeves left. On a short circle skirt a rolled hem, a nice rolled hem, takes 20 minutes. If you know what you’re doing. If not, it takes much longer of you going ‘oh god oh god oh god’.
Speaking of, I’ve put together a helpful list to get rolled hems on the first (or second, not fourth), try.
Calamity’s Commandments of Rolled Hems
Thou shalt not pull the fabric. The Serger is mighty and knows best.
To attempt to pull the fabric through at a faster pace will result in thy fabric not being caught by the overlock. And thus, ruin thy hem.
- Thou shalt not serge over the previous hem to ‘fix’ a spot such as one caused by breaking the first commandment. To do so will slice through thy seam and allow the fishing line to escape it’s confines.
- Thou shalt not pull the fishing line, or thy fabric will bunch in an unattractive manner.
- Thou shalt not allow the fabric to fold. The Serger is eager, and will bind the fold to the hem as well, despite thine’s curses.
- Thou shalt maintain a steady speed. Lest thy risk an uneven hem.
- Thou shalt always test thy stitch on scrap. Thou should do this for any new setting of thy Serger.
- Thou shalt ensure thine needle is sharp and unbent by the rigours of work. A dull needle is a needle that is of no use to fabric of fine nature.
- Thou shalt use a weight of fishing line proportional to the weight of thy fabric. If thou use’t a line too fine for too heavy a fabric, such effort will come to naught. If thou use’t too strong a line for too fine a fabric, thou shalt resemble Toddlers and Tiaras.
- Thou shalt not allow thy kitten to help by chewing on thy fishing line, nor on thy fabric.
- If thou hast fucked up, thou shalt START OVER.
So sayeth Experience. And lo, the teachings of Experience are wise, and they are good.
Posted on April 1, 2014, in Costumes, Fabric, Goat, Tutorial, Work in Process and tagged chiffon, fashion sewing blog, fishing line hem, fishingline hem, flounce, julian bobbin, megan nielsen, rolled hem, serge, serger, sew mama sew, sew news, sewing, tiaras, tips, toddlers. Bookmark the permalink. Leave a comment.