What you’ll Need
- sharpies in at least 2 different colours.
- Pen in at least 2 different colours.
- a clear/pale plastic table cloth or a clear shower curtain (either can be found at a dollar store)
- non stretch fabric for making a muslin or two…or five
- The pattern! “Notched” from Cosplay by McCall’s (M2042)
- Shoulder pads
- A dress-form
- or a friend and a lot of duct tape.
- Making a dress form with duct tape
Seams we need to make a few changes
Okay so, even a quick glance at the Notched pattern and Emily’s coat will tell you there’s some seam differences going on. Part of that is due to lady-bodies poke out and then dip in and then poke out while men’s bodies generally just kind of taper. (Think peanut vs Dorito shape). Luckily for us peanuts, there’s some handy darts already in place in the pattern where we’ll need to be adding seam lines, so we can use those and just extend them up into full seams.
Pattern Image courtesy of Cosplay by McCall’s.
I’ve added red lines to show the ‘Notched’ seams that we’ll be adjusting and
green lines to the Kaldwin coat’s seams that we’re aiming for.
Looking at the close up images of coat that was made for E3 in 2015, we can also see that unlike the Notched coat, Emily’s coat is meant to be left open. That means we’ll be cutting out a lot of the front pattern pieces where the coat overlaps to make the double-breasted bit.
I drew the Notched overlap in red with the pink (lighter red) showing the overlap of the pattern, since we won’t need that part for either side of the front, we’ll be saving money because fabric costs make me sad inside.
Zooming in again at Emily’s coat we can see the tailor added some weird seams. Now. You can either ignore them, and continue on without, or be like me and be a stickler for accuracy in the off chance you ever want to compete because why are you a master? WHY? I know it’s a weird dart thing but it’s… weiiiiird.
You can see the weird seams here, and we’ll handle those once we get to the draping stage. There’s also something to note about the lapels: Notched has the usual lapels which overlap slightly, while Emily’s coat does NOT. This is probably to make things easier on the character modeller, but we’ll use it to our advantage when it comes time to make our collar stand upright.
On the right side of the coat I drew a red line to show how most lapels would sit, with that slight overlap of seams.
One more thing I noticed was that the two long lapels are separate pieces on this coat, and this is where I will deviate from the Kaldwin coat and stick with Notched. Why? Because it looks better. It’s going to make my life a bit more difficult when it comes to applique-ing, but I feel that the construction will be worth it.
Now that you’re sick of this picture, we’ll be moving on!
Finally we get to the sleeves and the back. The sleeves are pretty straight forward: there’s an extra arm band and some major shoulder pads. We’ll be taking in the sleeve a bit because Emily’s silhouette is more streamlined than the Notched pattern is (which is made for wearing more clothing under the coat, and also room for man arms.
Notice something about the back seams? On Emily’s coat there’s a centre back seam on the upper half of the coat, and below there’s…none? luckily this is pretty easy to get around. We’ll just chop the centre back pieces at the waist, leaving the side back pieces all one. The belt will hide this seam pretty cleanly.
There’s also the princess seams on the back which extend up to the shoulders, which we’ll create by extending the inner back darts up towards the shoulder seam. We’ll have to be careful when it comes time to set the sleeves, because that’s going to be a lot of fabric to sew though.
Moving down to the belt, we just need to extend the belt from the inner darts to the outer darts. We’ll also be changing the small belt on Notched to something a little more elaborate for Emily. It’s still pretty simple, it’s just going to take some forethought on how to put it together.
In the image above you can see where I’m figuring out the seam changes and where I’ll need to be making most of my changes. I copied the Notched diagram (without the bias tape because that would be too messy to draw on) and printed it out at 50% darkness. Then, using a red pen I started going over the seams and making notes as to what needed to change and where. You can also see where I started to make some changes as I went, both on the back princess seams and the back centre panel(s). I tried to clarify them by using blue ink so that they would show up more clearly in the image.
Okay! So let’s see what our coat will look like after all the modifications… Red is where I’m figuring out what goes where and what modifications I’ll need to be making. Blue (on the left) is the cleaned up version where I can see clearly where my final seams will be, (aside from the back princess seams which I only realised I’d done wrong after I drew the ‘clean’ diagram… whoops!).
Not too bad right? Now that we know what we need to change and where, let’s get the rest of the prep out of the way.
Unless you JUST wrote down your measurements, you know what to do.
We’re going to be doing some additional measurements aside from the usual Bust-waist-hips.
Measure the following:
- Spine to shoulder ‘edge’
- Shoulder edge to wrist bone
- Nape of neck to small of back at waist
- Shoulder to jawbone
Original image from Bernina Sewing Center and
I’ve added blue lines to the ‘extra’ areas to measure
Look up sizing
Men’s sizing is different from women’s, because of COURSE it is. As usual look at which size your bust/waist/hips falls into, and choose the largest of the three. Why? Because taking in on our pattern pieces will be much easier than trying to let it out by taping on extra plastic. It’s possible but annoying.
In general expect to:
- Have the ‘side seam’ migrate forward because boobs.
- Have the front waist migrate up, because boobs
- Have a weird empty area in the middle because waist to boob ratio
- Hips be a little tight at first, but since our coat will be open this is less of a concern. Since it just hangs instead of constricts our movement.
Trace out basic pattern pieces onto plastic
Note! If you don’t have a dress form, or if you don’t’ have a friend handy to help make one, you can skip making the alterations on the plastic and instead use a cloth muslin, making the alterations on yourself, marking the changes with pen instead of sharpie. You’ll have to do an extra step of another muslin, but it’s better than guessing!
Trace the following pieces.
- Side back
- Front piece
- Sleeve 1
- Sleeve 2
Leave space around the pieces for when you cut them out to allow room for letting the pattern out. Be sure to label the pieces clearly so that when you’re
up at 1 am drunk hungover tired after work, you’ll remember which pieces go where.
Join me next week for:
Part 2- ‘Muslin’ #1: Oh God it’s all wrong. ALL OF IT.