What you’ll Need
- ‘Notched’ Pattern instructions
- Our coat from part 5
- detail fabric or bias tape
- Two silver buttons
- 4 Buttons for sleeves*
- Excessive shoulder pads
- Fabric shears
- Rotary cutter *
- cutting pad
- Seam ripper
- quilt clips or bobby pin
- hand sewing needles
- Sewing machine
- thread, bobbin, snips/scissors
We’re so close! Don’t stop now, the end’s in sight. Today we’ll be handling the last little things that
can sometimes always takes longer than you expect them to.
The time has come to power up your power shoulders. We’ve modified our pattern while taking into account the shoulder pads that we haven’t yet put in.I’m sure we could have earlier, but getting the damn sleeves installed was frustrating enough without pads getting in the way. How much padding you want to use is up to you. Since Emily’s coat has extreme power shoulders, I chose to stitch two kinds of shoulder pads together to add the extra shape since I am not built like a dorito.
Once I had my shoulder pads ready, I pinned them in place in the shoulder between the lining and outer layers of the coat. I made sure the square side of the top shoulder pad (the black one in my case) was facing the seam and lined it up to create the sharp angle we see in the concept coat. Then I hand tacked the pads into place at the edge of the shoulder, both corners (front and back) and the point closest to the neck, careful to only catch the interlinings, not the fashion layer.
Repeat on the other side!
Done? Before we move on, try the coat on, make sure that the shoulder pads are even on both sides and that you’re happy with the silhouette.
Now that we’re done installing the shoulders of doom, it’s time to close up the lining. Push the sleeve lining up out of where you’d wadded it in the sleeve arm, and smooth it out so that it lays flat against the shell. Be careful it doesn’t get twisted or that will get uncomfortable fast and mis-align where the armscye meets the sleeve.
Fold under the cuff hem of the fashion layer by an inch and pin it in place. This will help us from making one sleeve accidentally shorter than the other when it comes time to do the second sleeve.
Combine lining at shoulders by hand sewing the lining of the vest to the lining of the sleeve. I just did a quick whip stitch here, but there’s the Henson stitch if you want an invisible (normal) seam.
There will be some execess fabric that you can tuck into the seam allowance because the inside seam length is smaller than the outer one due to how thick the shoulder pads are.
I colour-coded the lines to represent the layers of fabric.
The thicker blue line is the shell while the thin purple line is the lining.
Repeat on the other side and then slide that baby on and enjoy your fully-lined coat. For a moment, then take it off for the bias tape and buttons.
This is an easier step if you use non-stretch bias tape. Or pre-purchased bias tape.
If you choose to make your own bias tape, there’s some great tutorials online. Just Google ‘how to make bias tape’. Using a knit or stretch? Google ‘how to make knit bias tape’. Follow instructions.
I’ll warn you that it’s hard to go back to store bought bias tape after you see how easy it is to make your own and get a perfect match.
Sew on the bias tape as normal, first on the outside right side to right side, then fold over and pin… er, clip in place? Using pleather was starting to seem like a poor choice at this point since it will show literally all the holes a pin makes.
So, I used bobby pins.
This is also where I realised that the bias tape was juuuuust a smidge too narrow to fold under against the lining since I was a dumb when I cut it. Instead, I just sewed it flat (since it’s pleather it won’t ravel, yay! it’s a messy edge, boo!) and then trimmed the underside, careful not to cut into the satin lining.
Pleather is truly a fabric of mixed blessings and curses. It also doesn’t like mitered corners I found out. Or finger pressing. Or… much about being a bias tape.
Some corners turned out better than others.
There was much regret at this point, but it’s nothing a little hand-tacking later won’t fix.
Finally, at the end of everything, there remains only the buttons. There are only two ‘official’ buttons on the design, at the back belt. I sewed those on, and scrounged up a set of four crow buttons for the cuffs to add that extra little bit of
regalness … regality? snazz to the Royal outfit.
Apologies for the feet. The new phone’s camera has weird dimensions.
Will crop them out once able.
With our arm bands, slide them up around your sleeves and pin them in place so that the seam of the band is facing the innermost side of the sleeve (Where the sleeve faces the side of your rib cage.
Hand tack it into place along the top-stitching line to hide the extra thread.
Trim n’ Tidy
And we’re done! Now all you need to do is trim all the threads and use a sticky roller to get off all the animal-helper fur from your lovely Emily Kaldwin coat. Which weighs twenty pounds. If the coat is looking a little wrinkled you can steam or iron it to get that nice crisp look.
Put on the coat
It’s so heavy I had to pin it to the dress form, and even then it kept sliding off.
Luckily it stays in place on me because I have actual shoulders instead of stubs.
Put it on and stand in front of a mirror. Turn this way and that way and enjoy how badass and regal you look and you made this all yourself! I advise putting on some up-tempo music and having a beer, you’ve burnt a lot of calories forcing this beast through your machine.
Enjoy the coat. Pet it. Love it.
T-th-That’s All F
Thanks for following along with my second Sew-A-Long! If there’s kind of sewing skill in particular you would like me to cover in the future, drop me a line over at my contact form or my Facebook page!